The Ireland I Know

I am so happy to be talking to you about Ireland. Ireland is a country along with her people, that has made its home way down deep in the heart of my soul. 

I’m hoping by reading some of the tips and the info on how to get around, you’ll find some nuggets  I’ve learned along the way, making it easier for you when you head over.  

 So here it is, these are all the places and sites, restaurants and hotels I would recommend you don’t miss when you go to Ireland. 

While I’ve been north, south, east and west, this 1st blog post is going to cover Dublin and Killarney, these are the two places I return to on every visit. 

The itinerary I’ve shared here, will work perfectly whether you’re traveling with your husband, a boyfriend, a girlfriend, relative or friend, or in the event you are traveling solo. 

Ireland is safe, the people are friendly and they are fascinated with the American people. My favorite time of year to go is September, it’s cool, misty, there’s always a little shower or two, but there’s hardly a day goes by without a burst of sunshine. There really is nothing quite like an Irish day.  

I’ve been to Ireland with my family, friends, relatives, and many times by myself. Each trip is different depending on who you’re with. Denny and I were just there in May of last year, so as of this writing, all the hotels, restaurants, and must -see sights that I will mention are there just waiting for you. 

So come on! Let’s go!  

Let me show you the Ireland I know.   

Let’s start with the flight. I live in Nevada, so I fly from McCarren Airport in Las Vegas, into Dublin. Depending on the best price at the time, I may stop over in Chicago, or perhaps Newark. I’m very comfortable stopping in either city. Now, depending on where you are flying from, you may have a different layover. Find the best price, the easiest itinerary, (one stop, not 2) if possible and plan to be in Dublin late morning if possible. 

The reason I say that, is your room will probably not be ready until 2 or 3 PM. so if you arrive late morning and catch the bus to the hotel, (I’ll explain that in a minute) you won’t have so long to wait until your room is ready.  

As far as the flight, I try as much as possible to fly United. You probably have your favorite airline, so just get online and check it out, go on Priceline, Expedia, or go directly to the airline of your choice. Look for the best deal and itinerary. 

Once you’ve arrived In Dublin, you’ll go through a check out point, show your passport, the man or woman behind the window will ask you a few questions, like where are you staying, how long will you be in Ireland, etc. easy questions and always friendly. He’ll stamp your passport and you’re on your way. 

Proceed to “Baggage Claim/ Ground Transportation.” The signs are well noted, after you collect your luggage and just before you exit the big sliding doors to the outside, there is an elevator on your left, it will take you to the ground/ street level. Walk until you see the sign for the “747 bus,” which goes “Downtown, Town Centre, Hotels, etc.” When you get onto the bus confirm with him that he stops at O’Connell Street/ Arlington Hotel. It just feels good to know for sure you’re on the right bus. Store your luggage and sit back and enjoy the ride. The driver will usually call out “O’Connell Street” but there is no harm in asking him when you board the bus to let you know when you’re there. 

He’ll let you off on Abbey Street. When you get off the bus, (don’t forget to take you luggage). Denny and I were way too excited once we got to Abbey Street, jumped off and forgot to take our luggage.) We wasted a couple hours tracking down the bus we were on.  It was amazing how helpful the front desk and the bus station was in helping us figure it all out.  Anyway, when you get off on Abbey Street, walk to the corner where you can see the river, and go right, there’s a pharmacy on the corner and the Arlington is just a few doors down, on the same side of the street.  That’s where I recommend you stay. The Arlington, across from River Liffey and Ha’Penny Bridge. 

The Arlington is in Town Centre, you can walk everywhere. Don’t get a rental car while you’re in Dublin. Do yourself a favor and save the aggravation. It is SO stressful to drive in Dublin. You can walk or take a taxi. Uber is not active in Ireland, but there are even young men on bicycles, with comfortable seats on the back that will pedal you anywhere you want to go. You will find the men and women at the desk to be very friendly, very helpful. Never hesitate to ask for help, or directions, or the best way to do something. 

There is a restaurant and bar right there off the lobby. I love the food there, the fish and chips, and anything that has mashed potatoes. You can celebrate your arriving in Dublin with lunch and a Prosecco, a wine, champagne or a pint of Guinness.

The bar is fun at night and there is a show called the “Celtic Nights,” I believe it plays every evening, with dinner, drinks and Irish dancing. I’ve done it a couple times, it is very lively and a lot of fun. 

If your room isn’t ready when you arrive, I recommend taking a walk. Exit the front door, turn left and take a right at the light. “O’Connell Street” walk up across the bridge and at the top of the street is “Stephen’s Green.” While you’re walking, O’Connell Street turns into Grafton Street.

Stephen’s Green is beautiful and all along the way, you’ll be entertained, especially in the evening. There are street performers, singers, there are places to shop, regular and high -end shops. There are cafés to have a coffee, a pub to have a pint and plenty of restaurants to grab something to eat. 

Once you come to Stephen’s Green, there are many entrances, if it’s a nice sunny day, you’ll see a lot of the locals sitting on blankets, reading books, lovers kissing, and men sitting on the bench reading the newspaper. You won’t find the Irish wasting their day if the sun is out. 

On your way back, when you see the sign and path for Temple Bar, take it… There are so many pubs, restaurants, little shops, booths, book sellers and the best darn pub for music. We could hear someone singing Christy Moore songs so we went into The Bad Ass Café. Chris Lucas was his name and he played the guitar and entertained us all evening with songs from the ‘60’s and ’70's.  He had a nice way with the audience, bringing us all in on it, making for a fun night. 

Some of the places you may want to visit:

Be sure to see the statue of Molly Malone. She used to be at the bottom of Grafton Street but in 2014 they moved her to the top of Suffolk Street, in front of St. Andrew’s Church. It’s just a short walk from Grafton and Trinity College.  

The Guinness Factory 
The Jameson Distillery 

Kilmainham Goal (It’s a great tour). The jail is no longer functioning but was the jail Robert Emmet, Charles Stuart Parnell, and Joseph Plunkett spent time. You may know the song "Grace" that was made popular about the young woman who married Joseph Plunkett just hours before they put him to death. (It’s best sung by the Irish Tenors, but Rod Stewart recently put out a version of it.)

You will learn a lot about the Irish history with this tour. It’s reasonably priced as well, costing only about 9 euro. 

Trinity College (Always open to the public to wander through the beautiful grounds.) and free.

Glasnevin Cemetery – A tour guide will give you a fabulous tour and information filling you in on Michael Collins, Daniel O’Connell, Eamon de Valera, and many more of the graves you’ll see when you visit. It’s a moving experience if you’re interested in the Irish history.

GPO – the General Post Office where a lot of the 1916 Uprising took place. You will see the bullet holes that are still there. Just a short walk from the Arlington.

The Leprechaun Museum (on the route to the Heuston Station)

Heuston Train Station easy to maneuver and recommended way of going to Killarney. 

Howth is the sweetest little fishing village, a few pubs, restaurants, specialty shops. You can watch the fisherman get the boats ready for going out and watch them reel in the fish when they come back in.  

The Dart- you can catch the dart across the street from the Arlington, it takes you North to Howth, about a half-hour ride and South to Dun Laoghaire with a lot of beautiful scenery along the sea. Dun Laoghaire is a beach town, much like Laguna Beach or Newport Beach in California. There are many small towns and villages along the way, you can get off and wander around and then catch the dart again and travel onward. 

The LUAS is a tram/light rail system that runs down the center of Dublin taking you to the Heuston Train station with stops along the way, at like the Leprechaun Museum. 😊

The Irish Writer’s Center On Parnell Street. Take O’Connell Street left, it’s an easy walk to Parnell. There is a crazy intersection right there at O’Connell and Parnell though. Mind the lights and look both ways. The IWC puts on short plays from time to time so you can check with them if you’re interested. 

St. Theresa’s Catholic Church along the way to Stephen’s Green. Gorgeous church. 

“The Church” Bar and Restaurant. A little bit of a walk from the Arlington, Uber does not operate in Ireland. But there are many taxi’s. It’s easy to walk Dublin if you’re staying in Town Centre and don’t forget about the young guys on bicycles with seats on the back, they’ll pedal you away to wherever you want to go. 

The Little Museum of Dublin is a great little piece of Ireland. It’s straight up Grafton at 15 Saint Stephen Street Lower, Dublin 2.

The Dublin Castle (walkable)

The National Museum (walkable)

The National Gallery (walkable)

St. Patrick’s Cathedral

Eason’s Bookstore just around the corner from The Arlington on O’Connell Street. 

SO in summary, I believe you’d be comfortable at the Arlington, taking the bus from the airport to the hotel is a little less expensive than a taxi, but you can always take a taxi and avoid all the stops along the way. I’ve just always taken the bus. 

Don’t get a car in Dublin until the morning of leaving if you’re going to drive to Killarney. I recommend you take the train to Killarney. I’ve driven a lot while in Ireland but now that I’ve discovered how easy it is to get the train, I leave the driving to them. It’s a wonderful train ride along the green rolling hills, with scatterings of sheep, horses, and beautiful Irish farms and cottages.  

A few more bits of info. Be sure to wear tennis shoes, or good walking shoes.

You don’t have to be dressed up to eat in the restaurants, or go into the churches or castles and sites.

There is free wi -fi on all busses and trains throughout Ireland.

Taking the train to Killarney!

You can get your tickets before hand online, a little cheaper than getting them at the station.

Take the LUAS to Heuston Station to catch the train to Killarney. The LUAS is on Abbey Street, where you got off the bus coming from the airport.  

When you arrive Killarney via the train, you have just a very short walk to Murphy’s. You’ll come out of the train station and cross the street and you’ll be on College Street. Murphy’s is just a few buildings down, on the same side of the street. You’ll be greeted by some of the nicest folks ever. 
 I hope Maureen is working when you arrive. And do tell her you are a friend or relative of mine.

Murphy’s is in town Center, you’ll be able to walk to most everywhere you want to go, shops, restaurants, the Killarney National Park, St. Mary’s Cathedral, even the laundromat. 

I always ask for a room facing the main street (College Street) I like to hear all the activities going on into the evening. The folks coming and going into the pubs, if you leave your window cracked at night you’ll wake to the sound of the Jaunty Car horse carriages, clip - clopping down the street. You’ll hear the newspapers being delivered across the street at the Dungeon Bookshop. I love the feeling of having a lot of folks coming and going. You can also hear the music from the bar from your room in the evening.  If you want it quieter, ask for an inside room. There is live music at Murphy’s every night starting at 9:30.

Tell them you know me. Say Hi to Maureen, Marian, and Dermot,

Free wi-Fi

Killarney National Park 

Killarney House Just inside main entrance to the park. Be sure to go upstairs and see the Interpretive Center… an amazing audio/video history of Killarney and CO. Kerry. 

Muckross Abbey,  a beautiful old church and cemetary Muckross House and Mary Neeson’s shop is straight up Muckross Road. It’s a good walk or a Jaunty Car ride. You can catch the Jaunty’s right there at the entrance to the park, across from the movie theaters.  Just a little bit farther past the park is the Torc Waterfall, you don’t want to miss that. 

Mary Neeson’s shop straight up Muckross Road from Murphy’s on the left is a lovely pottery shop. 

Christy’s Irish store ~ Waterford, Belleek, and all things Irish, linens and lace, Irish hats and sweaters.

St. Mary’s Cathedral (Mass on Sunday never disappoints.) 

The Friary (right across the street from Murphy’s)

The Gap of Dunloe

Innisfallen Island. You can get a boat and go over to the island. The driver of the boat will give you a nice tour and info on the Lakes of Killarney.

There is an ATM outside the Bank on the corner of College and High Street. (short walk from Murphy's.)

There is a tour office right there also, they can set you up for the boat to Innisfallen and also the gap of Dunloe. They are both fabulous trips, especially the Gap of Dunloe. The tour on the Ring of Kerry is beautiful and the best way is to take the tour bus, rather than drive. The roads are very narrow and winding.

Killarney Art gallery

Photography shop Peter Cox (Ask for Amelie, a good friend of mine)

Laundry – Mary will take your laundry in the morning and you’ll have it by 5 in the evening.

More Restaurants and Pubs:

Murphy’s Bar (Great food and drink) wonderful welcoming staff

Cronin’s restaurant across street from Murphy’s, (great food and nice bar)

Mac Sweeney’s restaurant and The “Sand Trap” Bar, (Across from Murphy’s.

The Arbutus next store and The Royal across the street both have nice bars. 

Courtney’s the old Irish pub (just down a few doors from Murphy’s) has been there since the 1800’s. 

The Flesk Restaurant ~ Great lamb/ steaks and good wines. 

Quinlan's Seafood Bar, just down from the Flesk. Great Crab cakes and fish and chips. 

Book stores: 
Eason’s on Main Street 

You’re going to love Killarney! In summary, arrive via train from Dublin, walk to Murphy’s, the friendliest hotel in all of Killarney. 

When you’re ready to book a tour or just find out what there is to do, go to the tour office on the corner of College/Main streets, next to the ATM. They can advise you of the tours available and will set you up.They’ll tell you when and where to be to catch the tour bus. 

If you are thinking about going to Galway or anywhere else from Killarney, you can catch the bus at the train station as well.

They will have the schedules right there for you to choose where and what time the bus leaves and returns. Everyone there at the train/bus station is very helpful and friendly. 

I think you’ll enjoy the Ireland I know. Seeing Dublin and Killarney is a perfect way in my opinion to see Ireland for the first time. You'll see city life, the country side, and meet a lot of wonderful folks along the way.  I've collected stories and experiences that have turned into the most beautiful memories. 

Let me know when you return because I'll want to hear of the Ireland you now know.